Jump to content
  • Welcome!

    Register and log in easily with Twitter or Google accounts!

    Or simply create a new Huddle account. 

    Members receive fewer ads , access our dark theme, and the ability to join the discussion!

     

Am I THAT much of a sucker if I buy a new car?


Donald LaFell

Recommended Posts

I'm graduating soon and my current jalopy is having some issues and so I will be in the market. 

 

The manual for being a frugal and wealthy individual says I should buy something anywhere from 8 to 15k and drive it into the ground. I will not pay for any of the 5 years of depreciation but I'll still get a decent vehicle I can trust for around a decade or so. 

 

One of the problems I'm having is when I look at the main commuter cars they seem to hold their price so well that it barely seems worth it to get a used car right now.

 

I'm so, so tired of driving a beater. 

 

I can get decent out of college financing and maybe some rebates on a 2013 model. 

 

I'm trying to live modestly. But if I'm living within my means why is such a sin to get a new car? I don't even know where new cars come from when apparently only stupid people buy them. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the fuzz said the best thing to do is pay cash. I actually did this upon returning to the states and literally wrote a check for $80k for two used Acuras. The financing guy was incredulous that I wouldn't choose the financing option.Wanted to punch him in the face.

 

No I am not madhatter. I had been saving for 6 years in a place where I couldn't really buy a car.

 

But the monthly payment can be paralyzing if your situation changes. I'm in awe at friends of mine in financial stress but they have two 60 month car payments at $1000 total. Back in the day loans were like 4-6%

 

But these days if you have the cash flow it isn't financial suicide to take any loan out at 2.5% which is the current car loan rate

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buying new is always nice but buying used can save you a fortune. My truck list price was 46k. I paid 22k for it with 41k miles. I checked the body, straight, clean no dings, no rust, etc. I carfax'd it to make sure it was kept up. The person who owned the truck had actually left something in the truck with their address on it so I drove by their house to see how it was kept so I could have a better idea of what their stuff looked like before the dealership had a chance to polish a turd. Motor is a Cummins diesel which have a ridiculously long life on them if properly maintained. Diesels aren't even considered broken in until they hit 100k.

 

If you're buying a used car, head toward the higher end side because chances are, someone who spends that much on a car isn't going to be dogging the piss out of it. Don't be afraid to crawl underneath a car and take a look underneath to see the condition of the metal (snow country and cars from the coast tend to get a lot more damage from the salt). It took me 6 weeks to find the truck I really wanted. Don't rush to buy, shop around, get quotes from other areas of the country and compare. If you find a better deal in Georgia it would be worth the trip to save 1500 bucks.

 

I'm very frugal and hate spending more than I have to on anything. If you are going to buy new, don't forget to negotiate the hell out of it. With my wife's car, which we bought new, I bought it on auto row here (about 15 dealerships side by side) and kept getting up to go somewhere else until they got the price where I wanted it. Ended up getting a 100k warranty and 5k off list price because I was prepared with other offers and was ready to go somewhere else.

 

If they want your money, make them work for it and give up as little as possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a car nut so I've always paid the price. I've gotten to leasing my last two cars since I just wanted to enjoy a new car without having to keep it for 5 years, worry about maintenance, etc. I don't drive extensively, and my current car is about 2000 miles under the cap with a November return date, so I need to take it on a couple of road trips - my dream is to return it after 3 years with 35,999 miles on it.

 

There are other things than money - but if you are NOT a car guy, then be a smart money guy and listen to the great advice here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best value is probaly a certified pre-owned vehicle.  But, it i nice to have brand new. You can get some good deals some places with a model year they want to get rid of .  (As you said a 2013 with 2014 models out.) Financing rates are great.  You can finance for 72 months to get a good payment  (to give yourself some room duting lean months) but can always pay extra.  They are simple interet loans...only pay interest on the part you use and no penalty fo paying off early.

 

What kind of car are you looking at?

 

 

Remember to factor in car insurance and property taxes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You buy new, and can't write a check for it....yes you are getting hosed.

 

Just do your research, go talk to a good auto lending bank and know your limits on payment, and only get a 3 or 4 year loan...max.

 

Then go shopping.

What do you want?

 

Not necessarily the smartest thing to do....depends on the interest rate you can get.

 

If you can get 1-2% on your car loan, you are actually better off getting the longer loan (5 years).  The value of money is greater than the rate you would be paying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We debating paying for our latest new car outright, but at 0.9%...the money we'd put down would make us more money elsewhere. 

 

 

Of course, we still put down 60% of the price, ain't no way I'm having a large car payment.

 

At 0.9% interest, you should max out the loan.

 

Take the money that you would have used for the downpayment...invest it....use that to make the additional amounts of the car payment.  You would be better off financially.

 

Same priciple as witholding taxes.  People think getting a big refund is a good thing...it is stupid.

 

Withould as little as possible without being assessed a penatly.....take the extra money each paycheck that you would have had witheld and put it in a separate invesment account....do not touch said money during the year....earn interest on the money....pay taxes at the end fo the year from the investment account.  You get the earnings instead of the gov't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know the numbers, as does my wife.  Yet having her happy and not wanting a large car payment trumps the few hundred dollars we'd net in the exchange.

 

Fair points....especially the one about having her happy.  That is the MOST important thing in EVERY decision.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


  • PMH4OWPW7JD2TDGWZKTOYL2T3E.jpg

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Strange, every news article and tweet I just searched all mentioned waivers. It is definitely his sixth year of at least 6 games. All I was trying to think of earlier was at the vet min could he beat out Bryce in camp next year lol. He's kinda got the old Darnold issue where he can obviously launch deep balls and qb run at a level Bryce will never achieve, but it sounds like he would be content being like a Josh Allen backup who doesn't throw the whole game plan out the window if he has to come in for a series or two. If we had him and for some reason still wanted to start Bryce he would kinda do what Justin Fields was doing the other night with Dangeruss, coming in for designed runs and maybe some play action/triple option rpo things to go deep. That would be so obvious and sad though. At least Russ can still sling it 40 yards in the air with a flick of the wrist
    • Too late to edit above but the quote is from this Diane Russini article in the Athletic: https://www.nytimes.com/athletic/5941684/2024/11/23/russinis-what-im-hearing-the-day-the-jets-fell-apart-and-the-broncos-rallied-belichick-best-fits/ Okay.. there you have sorry I left that out the first post.  Also waivers keep the contract intact. That is the major difference in released and waived. It's all in that link from the other post.
    • Okay so I am reading something in The Athletic and it says that Jones had to pass through waivers. So I don't know. I looked this stuff up when we were number one there all offseason and I thought it said 4 years in the league got you vested, as they call it.  Vested gets you out of waivers as I understood it. I probably got something wrong, but when I think about the slack quality of journalism these days I wonder about that. So I went and looked, again. Well, well.  For everyone: "When a player has accrued at least four seasons in the NFL, they are considered a vested veteran. When these vested veterans get cut, they are released and their contract is terminated. When a vested veteran is released, they are an unrestricted free agent that can sign with any NFL team, and the team that released them doesn’t need to provide any additional compensation." It runs it all down here, where the quotes came from: https://www.profootballnetwork.com/waived-vs-released-nfl/ As far as Jones, the team turned down his 5th year option so I knew that meant he had 4 years in, because they re-signed him anyway, after turning down the much cheaper extra year.  The Athletic is owned by the New York Times so I shouldn't be surprised. That paper was an institution once upon a time but they let their standards go.
×
×
  • Create New...